Wednesday 20 July 2011

Granada Leon

Fresh from the scenic Ometepe, I decided to hit up the two colonial cities of Granada and Leon. Granada was nice, but didnt really do much there. One day I visited a nearby market town of Masaya - which had plenty of cool stuff, but unfortunately I didnt want to buy it and lug it around for the rest of my trip. Mainly though, I met some cool people from Austria and Australia who are roadtripping around Florida around the same time that I am there - so we shall hopefully meet up. A guy got some neat pictures of us in Granada on a pro camera, but will need to wait till after we meet up to upload them.


Leon
Leon was the next city I went to, primarly for one reason, to surf an active volcano - Cerro Negro. You climb up a volcano for about an hour, see amazing views and then slide down on a plank of wood. Heres a video of some people who did it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiSOCGGR0B0. You can reach speeds of 80kmph while doing it and ripping off skin while doing it seems to be the norm.

So anyway, I did the walk and got to the top, saw some amazing sights and it was time to go down. The only problem was that the sand was wet and there was dense fog all around the summit, which meant that you were essentially going to board down into complete darkness. I was actually quite nervous about going down. But, on the way down it was actually really hard to pick up speed - the board kept bogging down in the sand and veering to either direction. Anyway, with a wholeheartedly disappointing experience of volcano boarding in my pocket I decided to do the only thing I could do - sign up to do it again the next day.

The next day things were completely different, the weather was hot and the sand was dry - which meant I could go at X-TREEM speeds. The climb was completely different as well, the smell of sulphur (for those of you who dont know, it smells like rotten eggs - or Tarans feet)  was a lot stronger, on every side you could see lush green hills with black mountains in the distance. Towards the end you walk along a ridge, with the crater on one side and the edge on the other - felt like a scene out of Lord of the Rings. There were severe winds as well, at times I actually got pushed a couple of steps to either side. I find it difficult to try to describe the feeling of going off the edge, but I will try my best. You kick yourself off the volcano and your lift your feet off the air. To begin with, you go slow, but you pick up speed very fast. Dont ever think about steering, because you are preoccupied with trying to stay on the board. You can brake by putting your feet onto the floor, but often it just means you do some flips over the edge. So, you are hurtling down this thing, bumping along the volcanic sand and after about half way the decline changes completely - it becomes a whole lot more steep. You feel it straight away because you pick up a hell of lot of speed. This keeps going on till the end, where it curves out and you slow down to a halt.

I spent the rest of the day just walking around and chatting to random people. I bought a hot dog off some kids - they had a pack of cards, so I thought I might as well bust out my David Blaine-esque magic tricks. Upon being astounded and having their minds sufficiently boggled, the kids decided to give me another hot dog for free. Awesome.

That takes us up to about 2 nights ago. Ill upload a post soon with just pictures of the various places Ive been!

Sunday 17 July 2011

Nicaragua

After arriving, I went straight to a nearby coastal town of San Juan del Sur - not much to say about this place - didnt particularly like it (was quite similar to Bocas and Puerto Viejo), so after two nights went to a place called Ometepe.

Volcan Concepcion is the one on the left.
Nicaragua has a massive lake in the middle of it. In the middle of the lake are two volcanoes, which have joined to make an island - Ometepe. While catching the ferry to the island, I met 5 irish men who asked me if I wanted to join them for the hike up the larger volcano (Concepcion) the next day. Without a second hestitation I responded yes, and was told to join them at 5 AM the next day.

Didnt do much for the rest of the day, beyond buy supplies and prepare for the hike.

I stayed in a lovely hostel which was actually just a humble house of a Nica family - they have spare rooms and so you get your own room for a great price - about $5. It felt good living local again - they didnt even have amenities like a fridge (but had a TV for the kids). I realised that this was definitely one of the strengths of travelling alone, you can meet people and join up with them for part of your travels, but if you want to be on your own away from the backpack scene, you can do that as well. Standard.

The next day we started the 11-12 hour gruelling hike. For part of the way up it was a steep climb uphill, with the path being natural steps formed from tree branches - with a dense canopy above. After a while though, the canopy disappears and you get to see a magnificent vista. You can see lake all around and in the distance the mainland. I had to stop and wait about 3/4s of the way up while the Irish guys completed the rest of the hike - just before when you had to actually start climbing rock. These dudes were actual pros, and the whole hike was completed in 7 hours, as opposed to the more regular 11 hours.  It was definitely the most strenuous physical activity I think I´ve ever done. Standard.

That night we went to a hostel bar as it was one of the guys birthdays, soon a guitar came out and a massive sing song started. We went through classics like Wonderwall, Dont Stop Believing, Hallelujah etc etc when a famous Nica guitar took the guitar and we all started signing Hero. Quality!

The day after I rented a bike and cycled to some places around the island. I felt like Ash in Vermillion when he first gets his bike. Some of the places I cycled through were quite amazing, unfortunately my camera wasnt working at the time so I couldnt take pictures - but trust me when I say there were some lovely cycling routes.

After three nights, I went off to the next city on my stop - the colonial town of Granada.

San Jose/Impressions on Costa Rica

Beyond the farm-work in Costa Rica, I was not overly impressed with the country. To be clear, it is a fantastic and beautiful place, with so many things to do and see - infact I could probably have spent my whole time in just Costa Rica. The problem is that the country is quite developed, and so quite expensive. It would be a great holiday destination, but perhaps not so appropriate for travelling. On that note, after my stint in Panama, I decided to shoot through Costa Rica and go to Nicaragua. To do that though, you need to stop over in San Jose - the capital of CR. The bus to San Jose broke down for two hours in true central american style.

I had to stay two nights in the capital while waiting for a ticket with bus company Tica bus. In retrospect, it was definitely a mistake to go with them - the coaches are air conditioned, spacious and cost a whole load too. I have vowed not to use such companies for the rest of the trip.

San Jose is like your typical central american capital city - a sprawling metropolis that is ubiquitiously described as being dangerous. Nothing much happened here of note - except two of us almost got mugged. I say almost, because upon frisking and feeling my spectacularly muscular body, the muggers decided instantly to run away. I think they were just teenagers messing about though; and we didnt have our bags or anything of value with us.

After all that, it was time to get a Tica Bus to my next destination - Nicaragua!

Thursday 7 July 2011

Bocas del Toro

After about 3 nights in Puerto Viejo, I made the move to Bocas del Toro - a bunch of islands (archipielago) off the coast of Panama. To get around you need to either take a water taxi or go around in a rented kayak. The hostel I stayed in was called Mondo Taitu, and was pretty damn cool - everywhere, from the toilets to the rooms, is covered by random quotes. Here are a couple of examples:

¨If its yellow let it mellow, if its brown flush it down¨
¨Beauty is just a light switch away¨


I also met some people here who were staying at my last hostel - the two Miami guys for instance - which made for a nice surprise and awesome reunion.



We did a few things during our stay here: checked out the town, rented a kayak and went to a nearby island, did a tour that included dolphin spotting, snorkelling and going on a beautiful beach called Red Frog. I´ve had an amazing time here, and definitely glad that I came - its difficult to describe, but it´s to do with the whole set up of the place. You have restaurants overlooking the sea and on stilts, you have to take a kayak to places instead of bikes and you have parties with people jumping into the sea and swimming back. Added to that is an infusion of carribean influence, so the place is really relaxed. Again, its not easy to describe how you gauge how relaxed a place is - everyone is casually walking about, has time for a conversation and are generally non-threatening.

Managed to get pretty nifty at body surfing - swimming out to a wave and then trying to surf it on the way back. Awesome fun! Heres a picture of Red Frog Beach:



Also, a couple of random things, Ive found that the countries I seem to get on best with are people from NZ and Holland. I dont know what it is, maybe the same sense of humour and culture, but those countries are definitely awesome! There are so many germans in all the hostels - trying to take over the world on the sly it seems like. Ive almost met people ´in the industry´ aka people who know what Deloitte is, its interesting how you can meet many people - and make more meaningful connections, when its in less contrived situations like Networking Events.

Next, its off to San Jose, where I¨ll stay till I go to Nicaragua. Ive had an amazing time in the farm, Puerto Viejo and Bocas so far - I would say that Bocas and the farm are my favourite so far, the problem with all of Costa Rica is that its really expensive  - so lets check out Nicaragua..

Friday 1 July 2011

Puerto Viejo

After having spent 2 weeks at the farm I was staying at, I decided to make a move and head to Puerto Viejo, a small town on the carribean side of Costa Rica. It involved going to San Jose, the capital, and then moving east - a total of 8 hours travelling.

We stayed  at a place called Rocking J´s, which we dubbed Crazy J´s, on the second night, for entertainment a guy got shot by two semi-automatic air rifles butt naked for a minute. I slept in a hammock for 3 nights, for only $5 a night. The food was great, big meals, reasonable prices (3 quid a meal). The days were spent chilling out on the nearby beach, attempting to boogie board and laxin in the hostel.      

Puerto Viejo  has a majority black population and is chilled out to some next level. The shops seem to close at random hours during the day while the owners go take a nap or something round the back. And the whole population of the town just seems to lounge about outside the many bars and restaurants in the area - sometimes I wonder how they make their money. One of the way they definitely make their  money is by selling drugs to travellers, when walking 400m to the town, you would get approached by 7 year old kids to 90 year olds, wanting to peddle you one form of illicit substance or another.    

The best thing by far, however, were the people at the hostel. One of my favourite bits about travelling has to be meeting of new people - all around the world. I met two dudes from Miami, Patrick and G, but they only chilled here for a couple of nights before going. It´s also amazing how plans just seem to emerge and fit together. I met two dudes who drove down to central america from New York, and were going back to San Jose (and had a spare space), and I also met some Croatian people who owned a place in San Jose - put that altogether and youve got accomodation and travel sorted to the capital!

But, all that everyone was talking about during my stay in Puerto Viejo was a island in Panama called Bocas del Toro. Apparantly the place is meant to be amazing. I decided to allow going to San Jose (and then Nicaragua), and head to Panama instead - stay in Panama for a few days, then head on my intended journey to Nicaragua. On that note, I´m currently writing this post from the second country of my trip - Panama. We shall see what it has to offer.

Sunday 26 June 2011

Day 10 - Going well

Eating, drinking and sh**ting well. The latter is probably the most important.

I´ve decided on the next location - Puerto Viejo, which is a town on the Carribean side (on the coast).

I also attached a camera to my head while riding the horse and made a video, it looks really good, but unfortunately it´s over 100mb, so I guess I´ll just have to wait till I get home to upload it. 

Today, I also decided to become ambi-dextrous - or atleast attempt to. I´m starting with trying to brush my teeth with my left hand, admittedly, I look like a bit retarded (you try it next morning), but I´ll keep you updated.

Finally, remember that horse manure I found in that soil I was sifting through? Well, I think I´ve sifted through about 140kg of the soil now, and I realised today, that in fact none of it is soil, but it is all horse manure (the worms turn it into fertiliser). Oh well, it didn´t bother me that much anyway, besides from the times it got under my nails and I accidently wiped it on my face. Standard. 

Day 6 - Football with family

Played 5 a side football with the family I´m staying with and some of their family/friends. Played alright, but was quite rusty - definitely need to sort out some Friday Footballs when I get back home - HKJ, can you sort it?

In the last minute, our team got a penalty to even the game - I´m not sure why we got it, maybe its some Costa Rican rule. They thought it would be good to get the new guy (me) to take the penalty. Whether I scored or not, I´ll leave it to you lot to decide.